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Drawing a site plan for a council or development application
Small projects (a shed, a carport, a verandah, a deck, a granny flat, an extension) often start with the same question from council: can you send us a site plan? For many minor works you can draw it yourself, if you know what it needs to show and you draw it to scale.
First: do you need approval at all?
Every state has a route for small structures that need no approval, or only a simpler one, provided they meet set limits on size, height and distance from boundaries. In South Australia, check on the PlanSA portal; in NSW, look up exempt and complying development; in Victoria and Queensland, ask your council or a building surveyor. The rules change and depend on your zone, so check before you draw.
What a site plan usually shows
- The property boundaries, with their lengths.
- Existing buildings and structures, and the new work clearly marked as proposed.
- Setbacks: the distance from the new work to each boundary, and to other buildings.
- A north point and the scale (commonly 1:100 or 1:200), plus the street name.
- Site details: the address and the title reference (plan and allotment or lot numbers).
- Often also: driveways, trees that might be affected, easements, and where stormwater goes.
Most applications also need a floor plan of the new work with dimensions, and elevations (side views) showing heights. Councils publish their own checklists; follow yours.
Producing it in Plotlay
- Start a map project at your address and run Map → Suggest site boundary. In SA, Victoria, Queensland and Tasmania this draws your parcel from the state cadastre, with the plan and allotment numbers in its notes.
- Add the house. Scan it room by room with Plotlay Scan, trace it over the aerial, or pin your existing floor plan with control points.
- Draw the new work on its own layer (for example "Proposed shed"), so it can be styled differently from what exists.
- Measure the setbacks with the measuring tool, from the new work to each boundary, and label them.
- Export → Plan. Choose the sheet (A4 to A1), a scale such as 1:100 or 1:200, and north up. The PDF has wall lengths, room areas, a legend, a measurement schedule, a north arrow and a title block for your project details; add the address and title reference. A DXF goes to a drafter if you need one.
Be honest about accuracy
The online boundary is not a survey: it is usually within a metre or so, sometimes more (see find your property boundary). If the new work is close to a boundary, or the setback is near a limit, have a licensed surveyor confirm it and say so on the plan. Mark the boundary as "from the state cadastre, not surveyed" unless it has been.
Elevations and sections
Export → Elevations & sections draws each side of the building, and cuts through it along lines you draw on the plan, from the rooms' heights, the doors and windows, and a roof you describe (gable, hip, skillion or flat, with its pitch and eaves). For a room you are changing, Plan & elevations of this room gives the plan with dimensions and each wall straight on, with what stands against it.
They are drawn from measurements and settings, not a survey, so check heights on site. For larger work, many councils expect plans prepared by a qualified designer, and building rules require engineering for structures that carry load.
More from the blog
- How to put a floor plan on a satellite map, to scale
- Measure a house with an iPhone LiDAR scanner
- Find your property boundary online, free (SA, VIC, QLD and TAS)
- Why satellite images don't line up (and what to trust instead)
- Wall thickness in Australian houses: double brick, cavity, veneer and stud
- Overlay renovation plans on your floor plan and compare layouts